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FENDI
Website: www.fendi.it
Adele Casagrande was born in 1897 and in 1918, she set up a leather
and fur workshop in Rome, Italy. In 1925, she married Edoardo Fendi, and
her workshop was renamed FENDI. The Fendis had 5 daughters, Paola, Anna,
Franca, Carla and Alda. When their father died in 1954, the 5 daughters
took over Fendi and became to expand and develop it. (Adele Casagrande
Fendi died in 1978 when she was 81 years old).
The first line which the 5 sisters introduced was Furs. They became very famous for their fur coats. In 1962, they called on Karl Lagerfeld to design their dramatic fur garments and he has been doing so till today. Lagerfeld also introduced their logo, the double F.
They shared the work, Paola presided over the pelts, Anna designed bags and accessories, Franca ran the luggage and leather shops, Alda managed the fur salons and Carla (known as the General) was overall supervisor.
The children of these 5 sisters have also grown up in the business and have become Directors of the firm. They have brought out their own label Fendissime.
In 1966 Fendi brought out their Couture Fur collection, in 1969 ready-to-wear collections. Lagerfeld has designed fur casualwear, fur trimmed denim jacked, fur-lined sporty raincoats, and other garments combining his high fashion aesthetic with high tech developments and colouring techniques.
In 1990 Gianbattista Valli worked for a year as designer for the new
line of Fendissime.
Around 100 Fendi salons are now found in all major cities in the world like London, Paris, New York, etc. although the base is still the Eternal City, Rome. They also have a flagship store on Fifth Avenue, New York.
In 1999, Fendi sold 51% of their stock to a Prada/LVMH joint venture. It was rumoured that the family members were feuding over this decision. Finally in 2001, Patrizio Bertelli sold Prada's 25 % stake to LVMH for 182 million pounds, due to mounting debt. So currently LVMH owns the majority of the shares in Fendi.
For the Autumn/Winter 2002 collection, Lagerfeld chose to keep things simple with a fabulous ode to Courreges, spiced with fur and ruffles.
Spring/Summer 2003
During Milan Fashion week in September 2002, Lagerfeld and Silvia
Venturini Fendi showed their Spring/Summer 2003 collection. Glam warrior
girls went down the catwalk dressed for battle, in skimpy body-skimming
chiffons and feathers, armed with killer accessories like the Biga, an
exotic shoulder bag named after a Roman chariot. On the left is a dress
from the collection.
Fall 2003
Karl Lagerfeld showed the Fendi collection during Milan fashion Week in March 2003. An outfit from the show is shown on the right.
He showed that Haute luxury needs to be pushed to the limit to stay competitive. Showstopping coats were fielded against a palette of petrol blue, purple, lavender and metallics. Neat coats in Persian lamp had embossing, culy cascades of Mongolian lamb spilled out of a skeletal framwork of fabric. One fur coat with a vast drooping collar was sewn from a single enormous spiral patchwork.
All his lengths were short and his show strung together some of the most high-spirited feats in fur and leather in fashion today.
Spring/Summer 2004
Karl Lagerfeld's ready-to-wear collection for Fendi for this season, was shown during the Milan Fashion Week in October 2003. One dress from the collection is shown on the left.
Focus is always on showcasing Fendi's state-of-the art developments in fur and skins. They produced an extraordinary transparent leather and perforated ultra-fine suede both of which trick the eye by narrowing the distinction between fabric and animal skin. He also showed cloudy watercolour chiffons that floated on the summer breeze.
Karl's personal favourite from the collection is the circular construction dress shown on the right. He said "the sunrise, sunset, moon, sun, a magic circle .. everything was based on a circular construction to make a happy collection, optimistic, bright, even the sunset at the end of the day is very poetic."
Sad News
Paola Fendi's daughter Simona (born 1965) had become an expert on fur fashion designs. She died in November 2003 of a lung embolism. The company will miss her.
Fall/Winter 2004 ready-to-wear
Karl Lagerfeld presented his Fall collection for the house of Fendi
in Milan during Fashion Week in February 2004. One of his creations is
shown here on the left, a brightly printed daydress worn by supermodel
Alek Wek, along with a necklace of large silver medallions reminiscent
of African tribes. The audience was feeling pretty cold in the huge industrial
space used for the show, but warmed up seeing Karl's creations for next
winter. He dropped the vintage idea this season, opting not to copy anything
from the past, but accentuating the new. It was a slick futuristic collection
with models wearing armfuls of metal jewellery, dragging knitted furs behind
them.
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TOMMY HILFIGER
Websites: www.tommy.com (official) www.taimur.net (biography and archives)
Tommy Jacob Hilfiger was born in Elmira, New York, USA in 1952, 2nd of 9 children of a Roman Catholic family. Tommy's father, a jeweler, was a classic dresser. Tommy was a frustrated athlete, too small to make the school teams but a ripe candidate for the counter-culture. In 1969, at 17 years old, he and 7 friends rented an apartment on Cape Cod for the summer. Hyannis Port was nearby and he got a job there selling posters, candles and incense in a boutique.
When he went home, he opened his first shop in Elmira, and called it "People's Place". He designed under the name Jacob Alan and sold these clothes in his store. By 1975, he had a chain of seven stores, but lost them all in 1976 when he went bankrupt due to too much partying.
In 1985, he launched a new company which has now grown to international proportions. He got married to a girl named Susie, and had 4 children on the way. His wife had gone to Fashion School. On their honeymoon, they went to India and designed a line of clothing backed by a local factory owner.
Back in New York, he collaborated with Mohan Murjan, the man who made Gloria Vanderbilt Jeans the first mass-market fashion product. Together they made youthful clothes for the Coca-Cola logo.
Sales really started taking off in 1989 when designer fashion was losing its share of the market and easy-to-buy lines offered the best of both worlds. In 1992, his company went public and in 1994 against sold more shares. It used the capital to open hundreds of boutiques in large stores. They exploded.
In 1992, the breakthrough in the market came, when Hilfiger's clothes
first caught on in a big way with black teenagers. This happened because
they were worn by the Hip-Hop entertainers like Snoop Doggy Dog, the Fugees
and others. For his womens wear, he lined up Quincy Jones' daughter Kidada
to help him sell his gear
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GUCCI
Gianfranco Ferre
website: www.gianfrancoferre.com
Harmony, geometry, finesse, free-flowing silhouettes, volume and fullness, classic yet modern, are some of the expressions used to describe the creations of Gianfranco Ferre. He has been called the "Frank Lloyd Wright of Italian fashion" comparing him to the great American architect.
In 1944, Gianfranco Ferre was born in Legnano, Italy. He shares a birthday with Napoleon Bonaparte, the great French General and Emperor. His mother was a widow of an engineer, and Ferre and his brother were brought up by her and his two aunts who were perfectionists who influenced him a great deal.
In 1967, he qualified as an architect in Milan, and supported himself by making belts while at college. After getting his degree his first job was in the design studio of a furniture company. He made some jewellery for a girl friend which was noticed by the owners of a boutique in Portofino, and he found himself designing jewellery for Walter Albini, a successful designer of garments made of silk and luxurious fabrics. Ferre also started working as a freelance designer, completing commissions for Lagerfeld and Fiorucci.
1970-73 Gianfranco spent in India, where he had been sent to study the crafts. The colours and craftsmanship made a great impression on him. He also spent much time traveling in India designing and advising the new fashion industry. The dazzling country with all its crafts, traditions and colour schemes, was a revelation to him.
In 1973, on his return to Italy, Ferre met Franco Mattioli, who had a faltering clothing house. Ferre agreed to do the design work for Mattioli and in 1974 brought out the first womens ready-to-wear collection for Mattioli's Baila label. In 1978, after 4 years designing for Mattoli, Ferre decided it was time for him to introduce his own label. He gave a 50% partnership to Franco Mattoli, which is still there. In 1978, he presented womens ready-to-wear, his Oaks line, and a line of garments, reflecting the free spirit of Sportswear. In 1982, he presented his first Menswear collection.
In 1983, Ferre became a professor of Fashion at the Domus Academy in Milan, Italy. In 1984, He was named Designer of the Year. The international trade Press awarded him the Womens Ready-to-wear award five times over the following years.
In 1986 Ferre introduced his first Couture collection. In this year, the President of Italy made him a Commander of the Italian Republic. In the same year, he launched Studio OOl, a new line and also his fur Collection Fourrures.
1989 - Gianfranco Ferre was appointed the Chief Designer for the well-established house of DIOR to replace Marc Bohan. He managed to capture the traditional Dior spirit and interpret it in a modern fresh manner, while retaining the elegance and attention to details that define haute couture. He continued creating clothes on his own label during this time.
1996 - Ferre left Dior after 7 productive years. In this year He introduced his own Jeans line.
Ferre has beeen awarded the Italian Fashion Oscar the "Occhio D'Oro six times, from 1984 to 1987.
In 1997, he opened a Jeans Boutique in Rome, And Boutique Gieffeffe in Milan. There was a "Ferre Week" in Tokyo and he held a Costume Exhibit of 18th and 19th century historic clothing in Turin. Ferre opened his Boutique in Geneva, and a new U.S. Showroom as well as Duty-free shops.
He continues to produce his couture collections, fur collections, ready-to-wear for men and women, the Oaks and Jeans collections, Studio collection for Marzotto Europe's biggest textile giant, 11 over lines and 15 licences. Bergdorf Goodman in New York alone sells more than $1 million per year of his clothes.
Ferre has a passion for travel, and visits several countries every year. He also enjoys relaxing at his lakeside house in Lake Maggiore not far from Milan.
Ferre Style
Gianfranco Ferre pictures the women who wear his clothes as "in movement, dark-haired, scintillating and brilliant." He likes his women to be dressed in feminine curved lines, asymmetric or subtly restrained silhouettes.
His garments are usually graphically created in strong shapes and bright
colours. Highly sensitive to form and outline, Ferre shows collections
that bear the hallmarks of one whose early training was in the careful
study of detail, in analysis and in planning. His intellectual approach
to design, produces powerful and controlled clothes which are often folded
and layered to create his precise statements.
Ferre has become noted for his expert use of stark colours, especially red, black, white and gold, and his extravagant use of luxurious fabrics such as fur, leather and taffeta. He is however still able to insert a little fun into his garments, like this dress made of cane in a basket weave, for Spring 2000.
One of the garments with which he is always connected, is the white
blouse. He is renowned for the way he sculpts white cotton, silk, or his
favourite organza into so many shapes. He has taken the white shirt and
made it his own, elevating it far above a humble shirt. He uses beaded
cuffs, lace ruffles, collars that soar like birds or that cut loose with
billowing sleeves. He is the king of the white shirt.
Website: www.gucci.com
For more than a century, the house of Gucci has been associated with leather goods. In 1898 Guccio Gucci left Florence in Italy to go London, where he worked as maitre d'hotel at the Savoy Hotel. He was captivated by the look of the glamorous luggage used by the guests. So in 1905 he returned to Italy and started selling saddles and saddlebags, and was quite successful.
In 1922 he opened his store for leather goods and accessories decorated with an equestrian motif. In 1932 Guccio Gucci created the loafer shoe with a gilded snaffle. These are the only shoes to have found a place in New York's Museum of Modern Art.
In 1938 a Gucci boutique was opened in Rome, then in 1949 a Milan boutique was opened. Boutiques followed world-wide, looked after by Guccio's four sons Aldo, Ugo, Vasco and Rudolfo. In the 1950's Gucci's "Flore" scarf was popularised by Grace Kelly.
In 1983 Rudolfo died of cancer, Maurizio his son, inherited his share and took over running the business. In 1989 Maurizio became President of Gucci. He said that there was only one standard - the best. He had a 50% share in the company. The other 50% was sold to Investcorp of Bahrein.
During the 90's, there was a lot of bad feeling between Maurizio Gucci and Investcorp which resulted in litigation. In 1991 Gucci posted a loss of $ 37.8 million which was a great shock.
Tom Ford
In 1990, Tom Ford was asked to join Gucci and together with Dawn Mello, the Executive vice-president, they cut back expenses by reducing products and reorganised the company completely. By 1992 the company began to do better financially and Tom Ford's design of a snaffle clog was a hit.
In 1995 Maurizio Gucci was murdered. His wife was convicted of his murder.
In 1995, Tom Ford's "Jet Set" collection with velvet hipsters and satin bodyshirts in jewel colours, was the sexiest of the season He went on with such success that the company turned around and is now operating very successfully.
In 1996-97 Tom Ford's "Euro Hippies" and Studio 54 collections were very successful. Now each season, Gucci gets better and better. Tom Ford's approach has proved to be perfect and right up to now, Gucci is one of the most profitable Italian designer houses, being a million dollar concern.
Click on TOM FORD for details of his career
In 2001 GUCCI under the leadership of Tom Ford, financed Stella McCartney
to start up her own label, leaving Chloe. She brought out her first collection
in Spring/Summer 2001 to great applause. GUCCI has also bought out Yves
St. Laurent ready-to-wear line Rive Gauche, and has given the design leadership
to Tom Ford.
Clientele
Gucci has always been very popular among celebrities and film stars,
and among Gucci's clients have been :